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| Á¦¸ñ |
whose name pays homage |
ÀÛ¼ºÀÏ |
2019-12-19 |
| ÀÛ¼ºÀÚ |
Tushetian |
The short story ´ä·Ê¶±=´ä·Êǰ ´ä·Ê¶± Çà»ç¶± ±îÄ¡¶± says khinkali originated in the rugged mountains to the north of Tbilisi, where people in the kgitbank=¾ÆÀÌÆ¼¹ðÅ©Á¾·ÎÁ¡ Tusheti and Pshavi regions both claim to have invented it.
During blistering winters in Tusheti, temperatures µ·¾Ïµ¿Æ÷ÀåÀÌ»ç regularly fall below -15¡ÆC, and villages on the slopes of the Caucasus Mountains are cut off by metres of snowfall. For centuries before becoming restaurant favourites, khinkali were a warming offering for Caucasus shepherds, with chopped lamb or »ç¹«½ÇÆ÷ÀåÀÌ»ç mutton at the centre, which was replaced by ground beef and pork as the dumpling migrated to the city.
At Tbilisi restaurant Sofia Melnikova¡¯s Fantastic Douqan, chef Lena Ezieshvili ¿ë´ÞÀÌ»ñÁü¼¾ÅÍ makes some of Tbilisi¡¯s most celebrated khinkali from a Tushetian ¸íǰÈĵ导=¸íǰÈĵ导 recipe that mixes seven parts beef to three parts pork, adding coriander, pepper and cumin. Under a vine-covered terrace in a courtyard hidden behind central Tbilisi¡¯s Giorgi Leonidze State Museum of Literature, waitstaff serves them on ramshackle, brightly painted wooden tables.
The Fantastic Douqan ? whose name pays homage to a legendary meeting ¸·½º¸¶¶ó¿©¼ºÀÇ·ù=¸·½º¸¶¶ó¿©¼ºÀÇ·ù place for Tbilisi¡¯s artists and poets during ¼ºµ¿±¸Æ÷ÀåÀÌ»ç Georgia¡¯s brief period of independence from Russian control in the early 20th Century ? is one of the last remaining restaurants in Tbilisi to make each parcel by hand. ¡°Khinkali is something you eat in the mountains where it is cold and you are hungry and tired,¡± said Ezieshvili. The extra effort ensures that the first bite delivers that same comfort: ¡°Like they would feel eating it in the mountains.¡± |
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